Sunrise at the Ganges

It was 5:30 am on November 30th when we got on the bus to drive to the banks of the Ganges River to watch the sunrise. We were in Varanasi, one of the oldest cities in the world if not the oldest, about to see the holiest of rivers. This city is one of rich religious history and is considered a holy city because it is where the Ganges flows backwards from its normal current. Because of this, it is a pilgrimage spot for Hindus who go and bathe themselves in this water to cleanse their souls.

Though it is a holy river, it is also considered by many one of the dirtiest. While life is given and cleansed by the river’s water, it also takes the ashes of cremated bodies when life is done. This was the place we got to see at the crack of dawn.

Our group walked down to the small motorized boats that carried visitors down the Ganges. I took my seat and noticed the scenery around me. The sky was still a blend of purple and periwinkle. The water reflected subtle shades of pink. On the shore, we were surrounded by temples, ghats they’re called, and run-down riverside hotels. The steps of the temples already had people bathing and washing their clothes. One man swam out past our boat. So this was it. We were on the river where so many spend a lifetime trying to reach.

As we sailed down the river we passed a few burning smoke stacks. Wood was piled high and I could just barely see the bodies as they met their end. However, it wasn’t a horrifying image as one would imagine. Nor was the air filled with a stench one associates with death. Actually, it was a peaceful kind of experience. It was like watching a capstone being put on another’s life, completing his/her journey and sending him/her off, be it to the after life, the next life, or simply back into the earth. Though I am not a particularly spiritual at this point in my life, it was definitely a spiritual time on that river. It was a time to reflect on what religion means to me, what spirituality means, and what I can learn from those whose faith had brought them to this river.